Whites
must be crazy 21/G2/5.10b 11 roped pitches
The
route follows a chimney and corner system to the right of the large left-facing
chimney heading up the centre of the wall.
The
start is situated on the north face of the mountain. In the centre of the face
is an obvious vegetated corner leading up to a platform on a buttress 20 meters
up.
1.(40m;
14) Climb this right facing corner through trees and traverse 10 m diagonally up
right to a tree belay at the base of the chimney.
2.
(45m; 17) Climb the chimney above to a large ledge.
3.
(60m; 12) A ramp leads off diagonally up to the right. Scramble up this to its
culmination on an exposed ledge below a short crack leading into a large
vegetated corner.
4.
(50m; 20) Lay-back the crack into the corner(8m), then head diagonally left and
climb up the grassy wall to the left of the corner, surmount a small roof and
head for large tree at the base of off-width corner.
5.
(50m; 21) Avoid off-width by traversing 5 m left from tree and ascend groove ,
tending rightwards until a thin grassy seam is reached. Climb this (crux) to
regain the corner and follow this for further 10 m to large ledge.
6.
(60m; 17) walk to right edge of ledge and follow large broken recess to trees.
(option stance behind trees at base of corner.) Climb steep corner and
pull up onto friction ridge which parallels the vegetated corner and can be
climbed (minimal gear) to large tree. It is easier to climb the final 10m in the
corner.
7.
(50m; 14)From the tree, avoid corner by climbing onto face on the right and
ascend this to a large platform. Continue up face above until rope runs out.
8.
(30m;14) Continue up water groove to a large block below a large grassy ramp.
Alternative
to pitches 7 and 8: From tree, climb face to platform. Scramble up diagonal
left-tending gully to the large grassy ramp.
Stroll
right along grassy ramp for +- 30 m until one is about level with a horizontal
line of weakness tending left along the face above.
9.
(50m; 16) Traverse 20 m left along this break until a large grassy ledge is
reached,. Climb straight up using grass tufts, and follow on-angle face to large
wild fig tree in large right facing corner.
10.
(40m; 14) Continue up corner tending right and up to blocks.
From
here, scramble up small gully to shoulder. Follow shoulder, bypassing large
block on the right to base of summit cone (+-200m).
11.(30m;
16) Climb obvious crack and face to summit.
Descent:
The
opening party reverse climbed the final pitch on their descent. It is possible
to tie some tape around summit boulders and ab off. Walk to the end of last
roped pitch and ab the route. Enjoy!
Opening Party: Mark Seuring and Alard Hüfner, July 1998