The climb follows the right slanting crack/open book system, which connects to
the corner system right of the obvious pillar. The goal is the large roof crack
which caps the face.
Start: Climb up onto platform below the right slanting crack system. 5m to the
left of this crack is a tree, with routes coming down the face.
1. (40m; 16) Climb up tree routes to tree, traverse 10 m right into corner and
ascend this to cubby hole below roof.
2. (50m; 18) Pull through roof and follow corner until one is forced to step
right onto face. Climb the face just right of the corner to ledge below a large
wild fig tree.
3. (45m; 16) Climb face, past fig tree, joining the corner at +-15m. Ascend
corner via off-width to ledge. Continue up corner into chimney and stance just
below large blocks wedged in chimney.
4. (15m; 20/A2 or 23) Climb past blocks onto on-angle face. Tend slightly left
to reach roof at its far left point. Traverse right with difficulty until it is
possible to stem out and around. Pull up into small exposed corner stance.
5. (20m; 17) Continue up corner until possible to step right onto face. Climb
this, tending diagonally right to large block stance below roof.
6. (20m; 21 A1) Crawl left along narrow ledge and then out toward roof crack .
Aid on bolts and a friend placement until possible to gain recess above. Climb
this to top.
(Alternative: Crawl left along narrow ledge and continuing into dark tunnel
diagonally right, gaining a chimney which is easily climbed to top.)
Descent: from the summit, walk west over back of sphinx to reach a gully system
which breaks the back from North to south. Scramble down either gully and ab
once to reach the ground. Head down to gain path which circumnavigates the
mountain. Follow this back to the road.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring and Alard Hüfner, July 1998
More info to follow.
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